Yāntái Superstar

Getting immortal at the beach

Pénglái, technically still part of my main city, Yāntái, is also a port city (the first on the eastern coast open to foreigners) and a big destination for domestic tourism. The two most famous features are its place in legend as the spot where the 8 immortals fell to Earth and the mirages at sea.

We spent our time at the immortal drop spot, Pénglái Pavilion, which you can see behind us, as well as the Pénglái Water Fortress.

It was a refreshing chance to see a Taoist spot, as I've only seen Buddhist ones. It was also a chance to party with the 8 immortals, because these statues get down. 

Now, I won't go on some feminist rant about how there is only one female immortal, as there is also a sexually ambiguous one, which is a surprising win for those of the "3rd gender." What I will do, is give a big eye roll (I'm doing it, you just can't see it), that Woman He is a virgin. It's a shame that for a woman to be a "holy" symbol in a religion, she has to always have abstained from normal and basic human behavior. It's also a shame that not only does this rarely apply to a man, but having multiple partners can sometimes make him holier. If a good woman shouldn't have sex, who is a good man supposed to have sex with?

Who has a bra to burn??!! Finish them!!!!

Whew, anyhooooo, to get to top of the mountain, there was an incredibly charming chair lift that you would expect to show up in wall art photos sold at IKEA. And I didn't die on it, so, bonus. And it creates romance...awww

I got photobombed by a baby at the top during my dragon unity recreation. But, the baby is so cute, that I've given him a pass.

Perhaps the most beautiful part of the visit are the quartz stair trails which carve from the top of the cliff to the beach and all around the mountain. They are terrifyingly slippery, but if you can get over your impending death, you can take in the intricate pieces and soft colors of the natural mineral formations that create the beachside cliffs. 

One of the saddest parts of the visit, and of China in general, is the litter, which is everywhere. That they seem to burn their trash at the park, also isn't a comfort. Photographer Lu Guang recently won the W. Eugene Smith Fund for documenting the effects of pollution in China, and it is heartbreaking and also really shocking and strange that he was allowed to release photos. 

But, the litter upsets me less than the absolute control of the government. It's scary when all media is controlled by one entity, that people disappear overnight and the news is sometimes completely staged to sway public opinion.

But maybe our government only seems more transparent. Here's an example:
There is great controversy and conspiracy theory over water fluoridation (the U.S. government, without asking, puts fluoride in your water). Although I consider myself fairly thoughtful, I've never questioned this, because it's presented as fact that fluoride is good for your teeth, and therefor good in your water. And if you look, you'll find that there isn't a diligent study which proves this, and that there is research which speaks to the opposite also available. My brother told me one story, which is that Aluminum producers needed something to do with their chemical waste (fluoride) in the 1940's, and paid off all the right people, created/covered-up studies, and silenced dissenters, making a very lucrative deal with the U.S. government. And, perhaps it isn't conspiracy, because few countries have followed us and many respected scientists speak out against it. So, where does our government get its fluoride from now? Why is it in our water if they can't prove it does anything? Perhaps I'm just as hypnotized by my own government as China tries to make its citizens.

So, before we get too dark, here's some joy. Don't ever say that I don't have talent. I have talent, there's just no market for it.

In case it isn't apparent, I am easily amused and happy from simple things, which can also result in "lameness." I rang a bell and there's really no reason that it should make me so happy, but I was like pee-my-pants excited. Also took some shots of the waves and some fishermen when I was there.

And finally, let's close on the joyful treat of seeing a real pomegranate tree (Oooo, Ahhh) and a common street vendor food, a baked sweet potato. It didn't sound that special at first to me, but after peeling one and biting into it, it was glorious. Why, oh why, don't street vendors in the U.S. sell such cheap, delicious, healthy and simple treats? 

It ain't no cheap date

Fast food restaurants in America are not necessarily known for their ambiance or quality (they aren't??!!), but an American chain in China is foreign food and therefor exciting. 

American chain food costs about the same as what it costs in America, and relative to the Chinese market, this makes it much more expensive, as I can get a huge, delicious, fresh, Chinese meal at a nice restaurant for under $20. So given its mid-level pricing, it's not something that the average person eats everyday and would be considered a treat, especially for poor college students.

So much of a special meal to "young people," that you could take a date there and still hope for more than an awkward hug at the end of the night. A date at Pizza Hut is a perfectly legitimate date. Can you get away with that in America? Try it out for a first date and let me know how it goes. Also, let me know how it is not having your phone calls returned.

As you can see though, Pizza Hut is a far classier joint than in the U.S., so it ain't like going to a U.S. version and it has a much more impressive menu. So far I've seen KFC the most (which is also the least glamorous, but most popular), and of course McDonalds but also on occasion Dairy Queen, Burger King and Papa John's. They're all essentially the same food, but definitely have some menu additions to appeal to Chinese tastes, like more seafood and hot sauce. 

Which leaves me to kill the dream a little. Most Chinese take-out would be like cheap street food to a Chinese person, and not nearly as tasty. I had never eaten real Chinese food until I went to China, and you probably haven't either, unless you've had someone in the know take you to some hidden away sweet spot. It should also be said that Chinese food encompasses a diverse range of cuisine, which is segmented into groups (you've probably heard of Hunan and Szechuan), most of which don't show up in America. Also, there's no Santa Claus and you were an accident. Soooo.....buy you an ice cream and you'll feel better?

Taiwan eats with a little art and politics

It's a good idea to take advantage of your location and get out of China if you can. I took a weekend trip to Taipei, Taiwan with some Hong Kong friends and an American, whoo, on a "food vacation." And by food, I mean street food, specifically anything fried. I'm doing one post for all of Taiwan, so buckle down. Here are two of my ladies enjoying some delicious fried chicken that we ate nearly everyday, and soup.

The main draw for my friends were the night markets. Night markets are open stall/table outdoor markets, at night. I know, I know, I just blew your mind. 

They're really popular with both the locals and tourists and generally have goods and food, but may focus more on one. We focused on the food kind, like the delish dumplings, spring rolls and gyoza-like dough/meat pouches below. Check out the guy cooking your food. Get out of his face, he's talking to his girl!

The food was yummy, but after your fourth fried entree, you may think, "Jesus, what am I doing?" and dream of fruit and raw vegetables. But you can find healthy options, you just need to readjust your brain for healthy Chinese options. If however you typically eat fried, oil-coated food for every meal, rock out, this is your scene.

The best advice I can give though, is try everything (I draw my line at bugs and live things). I've given this advice before. I get extensive praise for my "courageous eating," because apparently westerners are usually hypocritical wimps. If you don't embrace the food of the culture you're in, you'll miss a big part of the experience. In reality, eating a cow tongue is no different than eating your cow as a burger, you've just told yourself it is, and this is what you need to remind yourself of when you feel squeamish. Plus, you might miss something that you love. Like I love these little fishies, and am not at all freaked out now by eating their eyes and everything whole like I was previously. At all.

I also, tried duck blood. Yeah, that grey brown gelatinous thing that I am holding is congealed blood. It's OK to be extremely jealous. Even my Hong Kong friends wouldn't do this, but when in Rome...or Taiwan.

AND...I died. Just kidding, I'm not dead, just dead-ish, inside. 

Or not, because it was like tofu, tasteless. Tofu in the form of blood. And there you have it. I followed it up with a gun-shaped cookie. Looking like a sweaty mess is optional.

If you know me well, you know my belief that children under the age of 4 should never wear a hood or hat without ears on it and that they should be dressed in animal-like outfits as much as possible. It enhances them. Taiwanese people understand this well.

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We made it over to the Taipei Fine Arts Museum, which had a small but decent selection of contemporary Chinese/Taiwanese artists. The best was an exhibit on Pixar featuring hundreds of pre-production sketches and paintings as well as their shorts. Pixar's creative process is incredibly elaborate (which is why it takes years to finish a film) and I had no idea that they still do detailed hand renderings of nearly every frame, despite digitally animating. Seeing these illustrations up close, I've concluded that their illustrators are PERFECTION. I was blown away by the talent, and I've seen a lot of art in my time.

I'm a believer in taking some public transportation wherever you are to get a full experience. Sometimes this experience involves you being squished on a bus in 90 degree weather, trying desperately not to vomit from the smell. Sometimes this experience involves you seeing a lovely subway system with interesting art displays.

If you're traveling out of China, but plan on going back, make sure ahead of time that you have the correct number of entries on your Chinese visa.

If going to Taiwan, try to understand the politically murky relationship between Taiwan and China, to avoid a conversational faux-pas. Here's my best summary: Historically, Taiwan was given back to China by Japan after WWII. Officially, China is the governing body of Taiwan, however it doesn't actually control Taiwan, as Taiwan has a democratically elected ruling party. However, the current ruling party is a Chinese political party, who wants unification with the mainland, but to still govern Taiwan (as they don't want to lose all the wealth that they've amassed). See how this is confusing? But many Taiwanese people see themselves as a sovereign state, and some fled to Taiwan to avoid Mao's persecution, making "one China" unacceptable to them, so the government has purposely taken the noncommittal position of "not unified and not independent." Right...

So, what you actually need to know is that when you're in Taiwan, call people and food Taiwanese not Chinese, and nod your head in agreement if they express that they are their own country. When you are in China, you will horrify people if you express that Taiwan, or more drastically, Tibet, are separate countries. So when in China, nod your head in agreement that Taiwan is part of China, and like a rebellious teenager, it will eventually come around and accept this.

If the border guys in China are inquisitive about why you went to Taiwan in the first place, and seem personally disappointed in you, not to speak from personal experience or anything, emphasize that it was for vacation, to see more of China.

Eating street meat

So, before leaving for China, I was warned over and over again about "travelers sickness." In fact, at the airport in Seoul, Korea, a nice Korean man told me, "to be careful, because I will get diarrhea." Thanks? Don't worry, this isn't a post where I discuss such an experience. 

But instead, I am reporting my mythically strong spirit and stomach which got through some street meat. I know, sooo impressive. My brother had me eating this in my first week so I could experience "real China" (cruel?). Granted, my street meat was served to me while seated outside, but still technically from the streets...so it had TONS of cred.

And it was good. Fire + meat usually works out to that answer in my experience so it's not some shocking revelation. However, I will say that it was my first time with dried fish-on-a-stick (see pictures on right) and I really liked it. 

As Yantai is a sea-side town, we had some clams as well. I'm not a big fan of shellfish, but I'm really trying to fall in love with them because they are everywhere. I'm just not sure that they're in love with me. I mean, if they REALLY loved me, they would work out that whole texture issue. But at least they're beautiful to look at.

Now, in an interesting "the more you know" moment, a week later I was at an outdoor shopping plaza with Se Ah. I saw some young guys sitting around at some dirty, public, picnic tables putting raw meat, a pile of which was lying on the table, on sticks with their bare, dirty hands. Yep, my meat was probably prepared in the same way. Delicious, delicious e coli.

But, before any readers think America doesn't have this scenario, they should take a minute to consider nearly every hot dog, like the NYC street dog and baseball game dogs. 

Supermarket sweep

Except, without the prizes, and really bad decisions...was I the only one who watched this show?

I love eating, so one of the first things to do in Yantai was go to the supermarket, which is Wal-Marty, i.e. you can get lots of things there, like clothing. 

This is me at the entrance and a drink display. I'm a Price Is Right model.

 

Packaging is electric bright and the ad models are so excited to be eating products. I totally believe them.

There are some American brands that you can find, like Coke/Lays/Oreos (healthy!). I tried Kimchi Lays and they are exactly like kimchi, it's scary. Crab flavor Pringles are in my future. Generally, you can find what you are used to buying in the U.S., except peanut butter. Sliced bread USA-style takes a Korean market, and likely it will be a little sweet. 

That said, it's fun to try new things and get local flavor. 

What's that? My lovely model Se Ah is showcasing clearly delicious beef tongues in what can only be described as the packaged-meat-leftovers aisle. On the right are pickled chicken feet, a favorite snack in China. Look how much fun the model is having eating them! It's a sexy treat!

...but not for me, although I do have great respect for Chinese culture's full-use of an animal because it just makes sense.

Something that I found awesome is black chicken. It's a chicken that has black skin and bones...and that's pretty much it. But still, pretty cool, right? Not cool, was the blood on my hand after lifting the package. Does anyone have a DeLorean?

Generally meat is available in a much more, "this is the animal you're eating" way than America's hide what it looks like policy. But again, people eat EVERYTHING here so you have to see it all. I left these pictures out...this time (that's a thinly veiled threat).

Dried meats are pretty popular, and since I'm in a coastal town, fish is a big food source. I was a little overwhelmed by the sheer volume of little dried fishies available. 

And finally, it's time to play a little game. You'll enjoy it because it will fill you with smug trivia knowledge. It's called: "Guess what this is?" 

Examine:

Hint 1: It's in the vegetable aisle. It's not a vegetable.

Hint 2: It's vacuum-sealed, but it's definitely fresh.

Hint 3: It's a movement shot of my hand, but I don't suck that much at photography.

Guess? It's this. Waiting inside it's final home, dreaming of puberty. If you touch the package innocently like I did, saying something like, "What's this? A nut?" you will cause them to rotate around on some central axis and you will scream. Then you'll probably say something like, "But they're vacuum-sealed! They're next to vegetables!" You may whimper. 

They are usually fried and served on the street here. I promise a video for the future, so that you can all cry.

Also, I didn't know until being here that they have been selectively bred for so long, that they don't exist and can't survive in the wild. Wikipedia claims that they are the most domesticated animal apart from the mule, and it's NEVER wrong. Who knew? You now do. 

And the dinner party conversations begin...now!